Biloxi, A Gulf Coast Gem!

I still can’t believe how much we loved staying in Biloxi, Mississippi for almost a month this past Spring!  I mean we'd heard a lot about Florida, and all the beautiful spots there... and we'd found a few ourselves, for example Port Canaveral and St. Augustine... but Biloxi had seemed, to me at least, the "un-sexy" cousin to places like the much more publicized Gulf Shores in Alabama just to the East. We had looked at RV resorts along the Gulf in Alabama, most were either over-priced or booked solid through Winter/Spring of 2014; Biloxi wasn't.  So we booked a month's stay at Cajun RV Park right across Beach Blvd. from the Mississippi Gulf Coast, hoping for the best.

Our "Home" in Biloxi, MS

 Yes, Biloxi it was, and I’m glad to say we made a great choice. We were instantly comfortable with the town and the RV park; and, as advertised, we were literally right across Beach Boulevard from the beautiful white sand beaches of the Mississippi Gulf; what a treat!  

Almost all alone on the beach, Biloxi, MS

And right away, as well, we glommed on to some of the best seafood dining we’d experienced so far during our lengthy adventure into retirement living and nationwide travel.  Just down the street was a seaside bar and restaurant called Shaggy’s that became our go-to place for relaxing in the late afternoon with a glass of wine and some delicious seafood; the seared ahi and seaweed salad (yes, “seaweed”!) appetizer was divine, and the entrees were good as well. 

Ahi and Seaweed, a perfect combo for the Beach!

 Then, we happened to venture down to a place in downtown Biloxi called Half Shell Oyster House,  and I was “in heaven” with their char-grilled oyster sampler plate; a dozen oysters… on the half shell of course… prepared 4 different ways… outstanding! I could go on about the seafood offerings, but I’m “drooling”… not so cool… so I’ll reluctantly continue.

Grilled oysters on the half shell, Biloxi

Anyhow, where was I?..... oh yeah….  Over and above the great white sand beaches and wonderful seafood, we experienced something in Biloxi that I would label the “open lot syndrome”.  Specifically, and, admittedly it took a week or so for this to sink in, but we began noticing two things in Biloxi soon enough that;  1) there was of whole lot of prime seafront real estate that was empty… or containing just paved areas and/or foundations… and nothing else…; and 2) there were these decorative tree carvings… birds and other animals carved out of tree trunks, lining Beach Boulevard.  As it turned out, the two were related.

Soon enough it all began to make sense.  For one, all the empty lots we were seeing, many carrying for sale signs, were a result of the devastation wrought by Hurricane Katrina back in late August of 2005.  I remember hearing, back then, all about the levees failing in New Orleans, the flooding and devastation there… to recall the news reporters  then, it was all about New Orleans…  yet somehow Biloxi  quiet little un-sexy Biloxi, did not enter my conscience at the time.  But the reality is that Biloxi, and nearby twin city, Gulfport…. NOT New Orleans… drew the brunt of Katrina’s fury when it reached the mainland in that area. 

There was widespread devastation, whole neighborhoods wiped out, buildings, both commercial and residential, completely leveled; by the storm surge, which sent gulf water surging inland for over a mile, wreaking havoc everywhere.  Here is a pic, gleaned off a Katrina Website, showing a floating casino deposited on top of a two story motel.  This was only a few blocks West of our RV Park.  Now, eight years later, this is an empty lot, marked only by the concrete slab under the former motel... the Casino and Motel are long gone!

Katrina's aftermath - One squashed Motel!

And then there were those carvings.  We noticed them, sea birds and other animals carved out of hardwood tree stumps along Beach Boulevard.  We soon found out that these were carvings of trees damaged by Katrina, her winds and storm surf leaving only tree trunks in many places.  So the City and State commissioned local artists to make use of the trees and create the artistic carvings.  Very nice!

Katrina embraced! beach carvings in Biloxi

Yes,  Biloxi has rebounded, clearing the rubble, resolutely rebuilding in so many cases, and carrying on with a whole lot of resilience.  And we gratefully soaked in the essence of Biloxi, old and new, the pristine white sand beaches,  great seafood, and underlying spirit. It was a wonderful experience overall; and we were somewhat reluctant to leave in early April and head further West.