Saturday, 2 January 2016

Best is West!

Multnomah Falls, Columbia Gorge, Oregon


No holding back here, I’m a West Coast Guy; born in Hawaii, but moving to the Northwest by the time I was two; and I lived there for some 60 years before retiring and kinda/eventually moving to Tempe, AZ.  And, with all due apologies to those who live elsewhere, this, the West, especially the Northwest, and more particularly, EUGENE, is, to me at least, the best America offers; and, most importantly, will always be HOME.

A "toddler" in the backyard at our former house in SW HIlls of Eugene




Backyard "Pet" drinking from the Water Feature, SW Eugene Hills


































Since retiring together 2 ½ years ago, Lanie and I have been on a grand road trip most of the time, our travels with Bertha, our Chevy Diesel, and our Fifth Wheel taking us to over 40 states and several Canadian provinces while we have put in, so far, around 30,000 towing miles.  It’s been a great ride seeing so much of this great country (and Canada too); and we plan to keep on the RV trail in coming years as well, though no longer on a full-time basis. 

At some point each year, our travels always loop back to Eugene; and for me, one of the most beautiful sights in the whole country is the panorama of Cascade peaks from the Bend/Sisters area of Central Oregon.  That’s when we know we’re home in the most wonderful state in the USA (I’m just a little biased here).


Three Sisters from Central Oregon

Of late, though, as mentioned earlier, we’ve kind of, sorta, settled into Tempe AZ as our permanent base from now on... We call ourselves "Reverse Snowboarders" since we live here, but plan on traveling elsewhere during the blazing hot months. 

We still have many friends and family in Eugene, but no longer any worldly possessions there.  The last of those possessions were removed in early December of this year when Lanie and I flew up to Eugene for a long weekend, reuniting briefly with old friends and family before packing up a small Penske rental truck with some furniture items and household goods left by her Mom when she passed away in August.  We flew in on a Friday, originally planning to leave early Monday morning; but that weekend it snowed heavily in the Oregon mountains, including the Siskiyous in Southern Oregon, which just happened to be our driving route heading back to Arizona. 
 
Snow covered firs, Southern Oregon
 So we waited an extra day for the snowfall to stop and the passes to clear somewhat, taking off early Tuesday in the rental truck.  Still a lot of snow along the roads in the higher locations, and near freezing temperatures, but roads were clear and not noticeably icy; and we had a smooth trip over the Southern Oregon passes and down into California along the I5 corridor.  

Heading up the Siskiyou Pass

 
We Will!

Mt Shasta was majestic as always in its blanket of new snow, and the Northern California scenery was quite nice as well.  Then we cleared Sacramento and the Bay Area and got into the long stretch of, well, boring dry landscape from there to Bakersfield.  We endured, putting up for the first night in Coalinga, CA, north of Bakersfield, after a long first day haul.  Phoenix Valley was on our radar and reachable the next day after going over one more pass, the Tehachapi east of Bakersfield.  Then we motored on, literally diving down through San Bernadino, and on across the Southern California desert to Arizona.

Lanie with her friend, Diane, in Sedona, AZ
That was one short trip, the other was just this last week when we drove up to Sedona, a two hour drive north on I17 out of Phoenix, to spend a few days in a timeshare generously offered by Elaine’s fellow UO College of Education retiree, Diane.  Had a great couple days there in beautiful red rock country.  The sunsets on the stunning mountains surrounding Sedona are simply spectacular.


Setting Sun lights up Cathedral Rock, Sedona
 We also enjoyed (though shivering a bit as temps were below freezing) an open jeep tour of some ancient Native American ruins near Sedona. Very enjoyable tour.


Hopi ruins, near Sedona

Pictographs, Hopi Ruins

All in all we had a very nice. short adventure within our recently adopted home (away from HOME) state.   Arizona too has its own kind of deserty beauty.  We may not live in Eugene these days, but we're still in the West, except when we ain't (that old RV'ing thing).


Cactus in bloom

Tuesday, 27 October 2015

Messin with Texas



San Marcos River

 
Following the “Broken Wheel in Broken Bow” incident on the first of October of this year, we were ready to push off for Arizona, via a week plus hiatus in Texas.  We’ve been to Texas probably close to or more than 10 times since our first ever visit to Texas 17 years ago, each time either just passing through, OR stopping in Texas Hill Country for some sight-seeing, music and barbeque.   And we were headed to Hill Country again as we pushed off from Broken Bow for San Marcos, Texas, 30 miles South of Austin.  We planned to go on 2 lane highways, skirting the greater Dallas Metropolitan area, before connecting up with Interstate 35 South of Dallas and proceeding through Waco and then Austin to San Marcos.

What we discovered, barely 100 miles into our 400+ journey on the day, is that we HAD NO TRAILER BRAKES.  Won’t go into specifics here, but basically Big Bertha was now solely responsible for stopping herself and the 10,000 pound “Gorilla” on her backside (the 5th) for the next 300+ miles… which included stop and go traffic through the greater Austin area.  But we survived, with no visible signs of smoke and/or fire from Bertha’s brakes, and arrived in a beautiful RV park set along the San Marcos River at midafternoon on that Saturday.


Pecan Park RV Park, San Marcos, TX

We were ready to experience, again, the best of what Hill Country Texas offers, namely… in no particular order… Music, BBQ, scenery, and, oh yes, WINE! But first we had to deal with a few RV issues, the aforementioned lack of brakes for instance; and also such things as no Water Pump and an inoperable Gas Fired Water Heater, for other examples.  All of these problems were dealt with quickly, and efficiently, by Will AND Will, a father/son team from nearby Seguin, TX operating Lone Star (RV) Services.   These guys, like Discount Wheel and Tire in Broken Bow (see previous blog post), were “lifesavers”, coming out immediately to our RV, diagnosing what needed to be repaired, and doing it. This is another shameless plug for a great local company! 
 
Kreuz Mkt in the middle of BBQ Heaven- no sauce needed!
Thanks to Will, and Will, we were set to head out on the next leg of our RV travels after the upcoming weekend with confidence that we had brakes, we could pump water if needed, and our water heater was fully functioning; all important matters while on the road. But, before hitching up again, we were determined to experience all that the beautiful Texas Hill Country offers; which leads, among other things, to BARBEQUE.  Barely 15 miles down the road from our RV Park along the San Marcos River lies the Barbeque Capital of Texas… and therefore the USA, if you ask any self-respecting Texan… in the little town of Lockhart, which is noted for one hellaciously beautiful Country Courthouse building AND at least 3 great German style slow smoked barbeque joints.  At a couple places, plates, utensils, and BBQ sauce, are mere secondary concerns, and certainly not necessary to enjoy the deep smoked wonderfulness of Brisket, prime rib,  pork and beef ribs, pork chops and loins, and hand crafted local sausages. 
Black's in San Marcos


During this trip, we went to Kreuz (pronounced “Krites”) Market and Smittie’s  (Smith’s Market) in Lockhart, and then branched out to Louie Mueller Barbeque in Taylor, Texas up Northeast of Austin, Luling BBQ 15 miles down the road (SW of) from Lockhart, and Black’s Barbeque in San Marcos… All were excellent.  I haven’t yet found barbeque joints in other parts of the country that quite compare to the slow smoked barbeque offerings in Hill Country Texas … hold the sauce please, it ain’t needed!


Louie Mueller's, been around a long time!

When we weren’t seeking good Barbeque, which wasn’t often, we explored parts of the Texas Hill Country around San Marcos.  We love Austin for its numerous live music venues and general ambience (shading toward the liberal side of things, always a good thing to me… and unlike most of the rest of Texas).  For me, Austin, Not Nashville, is the Live Music Capital of the Country.  But we didn’t even go to Austin this trip, except for the nerve-wracking weave through stop and go traffic on a Saturday with no trailer brakes.  Instead, we had lots to look forward to… besides barbeque… in the San Marcos area.  

 
Wine Tasting in Gruene, TX
 
For one, there is Gruene Hall, and the little community of the same name, on the outskirts of New Braunfels, just south of San Marcos.  Gruene Hall is the OLDEST music hall in all of Texas; and its rustic interior has seen pretty much all the greats of Texas Music, and beyond.  A then virtually unknown George Strait and his band, hailing from nearby San Marcos, played here for tips  way back when… WHEN they were still trying to get a foothold in country music. And others as well, Willie, Jerry Jeff, Dale, Chris, Bruce, Kelly, Rodney, and the list of Country luminaries goes on and on, and beyond…  On the weekend before we were slated to leave Texas, Aaron Neville headlined a music festival at this little music and dance hall… We, regrettably, did not go since we had previously committed to a weekend festival near Houston.

Gruene Hall

 
Just another live music night at Gruene Hall

About that festival, officially it was called the Conroe Cajun Crawfish Festival, Conroe being a bedroom community some 50 miles north of Houston.  We actually stayed in a pretty little RV Park a few miles East of Conroe in a community called (I kid you not!) “Cut and Shoot”.  Hey, we weren’t packing “heat”… so nothing to shoot with or at, and I only cut my finger once trying to break off a snagged fish line while dipping in the fishing pond (unsuccessfully) for a big catfish.  Lanie and I went to the festival on a Saturday night, eating Louisiana/Cajun flavored dishes and listening to good local Texas, and Cajun, music.  One downer here was it was damn tough to order a decent glass of wine…. Bud Light (why? I don’t know), ruled the day, perhaps because they were the prime sponsor… Hey, Texas ain’t huge on good local microbrews, what can I say?... so drink your damn pis… I mean Bud Light, and don’t hassle my choice of cheap red wine!



Cajun food in Conroe

Crawfish gumbo and something else Cajun... can't remember the details!

Two of our favored Texan musicians, who most of the rest of the World have never heard of, namely Cory Morrow from Houston, and headliner Roger Creager from Corpus Christi, closed out the Saturday evening music on the Texas stage.  A block away, a like number of regional Cajun and Creole musicians entertained the festival crowd. It was a good day, and night, despite my inability to land a single dang catfish back at the RV park.

The Crawfish Festival behind us, we set off of Sunday, October 11th, for points West, ultimate destination Tempe, AZ… it was time to go “home”, or what passes for home for us when we’re not on the road.  We trekked some 300 miles across Texas to Kerrville, a San Antonio bedroom community, the first day, with a noon time stop at Luling BBQ in the heart of Barbeque Heaven. Did I mention that Texas is a BIG State?  We still had some 400 miles to go to get to the Texas/New Mexico border.  And the last part of the next day’s journey was through El Paso, which was… well, I won’t say anything GOOD or further about El Paso, other than we made it through without mishap… and put up camp in nearby Las Cruces, New Mexico.
 
Las Cruces, New Mexico

  We were done with Texas, but it had been a good trip, if a little trying with the RV maintenance issues.  Texas had done a little bit of “messin” with us it seems.  But we survived, and next day, a Tuesday, we were back in Tempe, our home away from our REAL HOME!

Sunday, 4 October 2015

Keep on Travelin' - Eureka Springs and Broken Bow

Thorncrown Chapel, Eureka Springs, Arkansas, an architectural wonder encased in clear glass

Tuesday, September 29th, marked our departure date from Iowa and our little family that now lives there.  We had a great time with Sara, Drew, Jonah and Isaac during our two stays (July and September), but it was time to head South and once again inhabit our new home away from “home” in Tempe, AZ.  We woke up early Tuesday morning to a driving rainstorm; NOT the best way to start out a long travel day.  But the rain had largely cleared by the time we made it out of the greater Des Moines area, and it was pretty smooth sailing down I35 through Kansas City, then Joplin, Missouri, finally leaving the freeway and heading East up into the Ozarks of NW Arkansas. 

Soon we were passing through a medium sized city called Bentonville that seemed to have kind of a Walmart feel to it.  Then, it occurred to us, well to Lanie at least, that Bentonville was where it all started for Sam Walton and family, the Walmart Empire growing from humble beginnings in this modest little Arkansas town to what it is today; that is a huge conglomerate with its own cultural icons, aka “the Walmart aisle clogging shoppers”, not to mention a handful of billionaire Waltons populating the Most Wealthy Lists in this Country. 
Downtown Eureka Springs, clinging to the canyons and wooded hills of the Arkansas Ozarks

From there it was on to a truly quaint, charming little town called Eureka Springs, with Victorian style homes and ancient town buildings squeezed into the “hollers” of the woodsy Ozarks.  The road in from the bigger towns like Bentonville and Rogers was picturesque, if also a little curvy and just a bit challenging, especially hauling the 34 foot, 10,000 pound gorilla (the 5th) through those curves.  But we made it to our RV park for the next two nights, a KOA tucked right into the woodsy surroundings. And next day, the final day of September, we explored the town and the surrounding hills of the truly beautiful Ozarks. 
Our KOA campground site in Eureka Springs

With this kind of connection to nature, I could become a regular churchgoer again! InsideThorncrown Chapel, Eureka Springs, AR

We would have liked to have stayed longer, and were already planning to visit and explore this area more on a future trip; but on Thursday, October 1st, we were off again on a relatively short jaunt to a little town down in the SE Corner of Oklahoma called Broken Bow,  Lanie has ancestors buried there, and we’d briefly visited the town 17 years earlier during a family history trek (hauling our then teenage daughters and our first RV, a Palomino Tent Trailer) that went from Eugene as far East as Mississippi, covering many states and towns in between, including Broken Bow, in the process.

Our trip down to Broken Bow this time was quite scenic, continuing on I35 to Fort Smith Arkansas, then going off the freeway and down on two lane highways through surprisingly hilly, wooded country in SE Oklahoma to our destination.  It was less than 250 miles driving distance from Eureka Springs to Broken Bow… piece of cake… UNTIL we drove into Beavers Dam State Park, our campground for the next two nights.

Broken Bow Lake

We checked in at the Park Office, then started down the short blacktop road to our campground, which had lots of empty sites.  On our first pass through the campground, we noticed another camper towing a little white trailer and kind of driving parallel to us.  We turned a corner and he was right in front of us, wanting to chat it appears.  I rolled down the window, and in a developing scene that sometime down the line (but not now!) will probably seem comical to us, this gentleman informed me I was “missing a wheel”.  WHAT? I got out of Bertha, walked right to the back of the 5th, and checked on our spare.  It was still in place, bolted to its holder on the back bumper.  “No, NOT that one”… or something to that effect, this gentleman said, then pointed to a wheel that looked suspiciously like one of ours that was riding on his trailer’s front hitch assembly, and told me to look on the other side of our trailer. 
Uh Oh, NO WHEEL!


I did so, and, lo and behold, we were missing an entire wheel, with only part of the brake housing and just one brake pad remaining on the end of the axle.  Insert any expletive here, as I promptly did, but silently mind you… really I was just thinking various expletives, not bursting out in full voice with my… uh dismay!   I went back to Lanie’s window, confirmed that, YES, indeed, we had lost a wheel.  Since our 5th has dual axles, we really didn’t notice it dropping off when it happened, which thankfully was at very slow Park speeds, just a quarter mile up the road as it turned out. 

NOW WHAT?  We were in a very isolated spot in a sparsely populated part of Oklahoma, we were only planning to stay two nights, and we had just 3 wheels on axles that needed 4 for a complete set.  To compound our problems, we had no WiFi or Cellphone service at our campsite; so sitting down and locating and calling various auto/trailer repair shops was not an option; at least not in the comforts of our now three-legged 5th Wheel, which we did manage to back into a site and prop up on jacks.
Woodsy beauty at Beavers Dam State Park near Broken Bow, OK

The WHAT that we quickly found was a whole lot of kind, good hearted decency and helpfulness in the people from that part of Oklahoma, starting with the gentleman who had retrieved our tire, matched it with our 3 legged 5th Wheel and flagged us down.  He not only flagged us down, but insisted he drive it to our campsite and help me unload it; and he was supposed to be checking out, and heading on with his own trailer.

So his helpfulness got the whole thing rolling, and it kept rolling from there.  Unhitched, we drove Bertha back up to the Park Office, paid for our planned two night stay, while informing the very nice Lady who checked us in that our… uh… two night stay might have to be a bit longer, depending on how long it took to get our 5th Wheel repaired.  She asked what was wrong… I told her; and, without another word, she was on the phone (good old fashioned wired phone, working where our Smartphones were rendered useless).  First guy she got on the line was service manager for a local RV dealership.  I talked to him; unfortunately he could not help us, said they were super busy; and what we needed, that is someone to come out to our campsite and assess, then repair the damage, could not be done, not by "ANYBODY IN THESE PARTS AT LEAST"! (his direct quote)

I hung up, silent expletives rising within me yet again.  Julie… by this time we were on a first name basis… promptly was on the phone again, this time talking to a guy named Mike, explaining our predicament.  She put me on the phone with him.  Mike got the basics from me, thought he could help; said he could probably get a guy out to look at the trailer and wheel that very afternoon; and he did.  I found out from Julie, after thanking Mike profusely and hanging up,  that Mike was manager of Discount Wheel and Tire in downtown Broken Bow.  Turns out that there was an “Anybody In These Parts” that could help us out.  Mike’s guy, a young fellow named Daniel, indeed came out that same afternoon, while we were away, having headed to a nearby restaurant for a late (3 PM or so) lunch and cellphone access. 

Another nice soul, our waitress named Donna, asked what we would like.  First thing out of my mouth was, “Don’t suppose you serve alcohol here”?   Her polite answer was NO.  Then we proceeded to explain that it had been a bit of a trying afternoon.  She asked why, and we filled her in; and she offered that maybe her husband could help us out, that he was pretty good with that kind of work.  We told her about Mike, whose promise to help was, at that time, just a promise as far as we knew; she took our order, then a short time later was back with a phone to her ear and some guy jabbering loudly on speaker phone.  It was her husband, Paul, who wanted to talk to me, asked what I’d seen with the wheel and tire, then immediately offered his opinion about what happened; that is that probably the bearings in that wheel were bad and had caused the wheel to twist and loosen and eventually break away from the axle and brake rotor. 
Our "Anybody in These Parts' answer in Broken Bow, OK (consider this a shameless plug for a great company and crew)
Turns out he was exactly right, as we found out the next morning from Mike and his guy, Daniel.  The next astounding act of generosity and helpfulness unfolded in the following minutes as Paul, still talking loudly on the speaker phone, told me, that, while he lived 30 miles north of there, he could come down that very afternoon to look at our trailer.  I told him I thought Mike and his crew were going to help us, but took Paul’s number down just in case.  Donna came back then with our orders, and added lightly, “ I think he just wants an excuse to come pay me a visit”, “while also stating the obvious, “He likes to talk”; and then she informed me that Paul had worked as an RV Service Technician for many years. Great backup resource, I thought.

To try to shorten a longer than expected little story, Daniel did come out (footnote here, he ended up making three trips to and from our campground, a round trip of 24 miles each time, and was unfailingly polite, always answering “yes, Sir” or “no Sir” to my various queries), I actually met with him and Mike at the Discount Tire office a couple times Thursday afternoon and Friday, as well as seeing him at work at our campsite Friday on two occasions; and, as of Friday afternoon we looked good to go, a few hundred dollars poorer, but richer for the experience of dealing with a handful of very fine and generous folks (start counting, Guy in the campground, name unknown, who retrieved our tire, Julie, Mike, Donna, Paul, Daniel, and I’m sure there are others)  down here in SE Oklahoma.  Broken Bow was good for our Broken Wheel (Silly pun, but deal with it!)

Next stop: San Marcos, Texas.