Thursday, 6 April 2017

Loving Italy, European Vacation, Concluded

Picking up here after an unexpected one night stayover in Milan.

The magnificent duomo (cathedral) in old town Milano


Sunday, October 2, 2016 -  Fortunately Addison was able to get a suitable vehicle, a VW Passat (European Edition) at Europcar, another nearby company, on this morning; and we were soon off to  Tuscany region, with all aboard, including our big bags.  Our route took us on the Italian Freeways, the Autostradas, to Bologna, then on to Florence, Addison driving.  We were all surprised at how big the hills were in Tuscany, some bordering on being small mountains; and the Autostrada took us through a number of tunnels burrowing right through the hills.  Approaching Florence, the built in GPS in the rental car routed us through the North suburbs of Florence, a slow route given that we later learned we could have stayed on the Autostrada as it looped to the left (East)  below Florence, with an exit just a few kilometers from our resort.  But we took the backroads instead, and then couldn’t find our resort, which was a few kilometers outside of the little town of Rignano sul Arno, which sat alongside the Arno River. 
Our Resort at Rignano Sul Arno, near Florence

After several unsuccessful attempts to locate the resort on our own (GPS failed us again here), Addison flagged down a couple out walking in Rignano sul Arno; and they very graciously offered to take us there; walking back to their nearby house, hopping in their car, and leading us there. After having a guy at the Milan station who helped us briefly by walking us out to the main square and pointing to where the rental car company would be, then demanding a big tip for doing so; we gratefully offered this kind couple a 10 Euro tip; which they refused to take.  So finally we were at the resort, Villa I’ll Palagio, unpacking in a two bedroom, two bath, suite.  We wandered around again, looking unsuccessfully for a restaurant the hotel desk lady recommended before settling for dinner at the Villa Palagio on-site restaurant.
Vineyards stretching up the hills in Chianti wine region

Monday, October 3,2016 -  This day was spent driving into the Chianti wine region just south of Florence, where we wine tasted at a couple wineries, and had lunch at a very nice family run restaurant in a charming little town called Greve.  This area is very nice, rolling hills filled with vineyards, and centuries old small towns.  Lanie and I would have liked to spend more time exploring the small towns in this region; but we had arrived in Florence a day late, and had other visits planned for the week to Venice, Florence and Pisa.
Chianti on the vine!

Tuesday, October 4, 2016 – This was Venice day.  I took the wheel for the first time as we headed NE through the rolling hills toward the Aegean Seacoast.   By distance, this looked like maybe a 3 to 4 hour trip; it actually took 5 as the hills got higher and the roads going up and down very “switchbacky”.  Fortunately, Connie, in the right front seat, and who suffers from motion sickness, dozed through much of the windiest portion.  Once we reached the coast, near Ravenna, it was a straighter highway, but clogged by a lot of truck traffic chugging north toward Venice. 
 
Grand Canal in Venezia

 But we made Venice fine, and spent most of the day there along the Grand Canal, enjoying good wine, food and company.  In the evening we headed back, via Autostradas this time, to Bologna, and then down to Florence.  This trip took less than 3 hours.  I drove most of the way, turning it over to Addison for the last 30 miles or so.
Gondola crusing up the canals of Venezia


Wednesday, October 5, 2016 -  On this day we had a tour scheduled in Florence; so we drove the short distance to  Rignano sul Arno rail station, managed to get on the right train and headed to the big town.  There we had a scheduled tour/viewing of Michelangelo’s “David” sculpture, which was truly stunning; and also a Hop on/Hop off tour of this ancient Tuscan city. 
 
The David!

  Getting back to Villa I’ll Palagio was again a bit of an adventure.  A young local woman at the Florence train station “helped” us find a train going in that direction, for tips of course; but it turned out this was a train with a final destination of Rome to the South, and no stop at Rignano sul Arno station.  We all began to wonder about the routing when we entered a long tunnel not far out of Florence; we did not do tunnels on the way into Florence.  Anyhow, we started to pull into a train stop at a little town called Fignine; and a quick look at the map told us we were already past (South of) Rignano sul Arno. We beat a hasty retreat out of that train, scrambled around for a bit, finding out that a train going the opposite direction (North) and scheduled to stop at Rignano sul Arno was due into the Fignine station in a matter of just a few minutes.  Addison and I were at the small rail station office at the time we figured out the train schedule, and we literally ran back to the platform where Connie and Lanie had already placed themselves; and we were soon on board for the short trip back to Rignano sul Arno.

Florence from an overlooking hillside

Thursday, October 6, 2016 -  We were off to Pisa on the Mediterranean Coast this day, where we had two  Leaning Tower tour tickets which Addison and I were going to use to climb the tower.  Addison kind of drove past the turnoff to Pisa, and we were 10 or 15 miles north of Florence and the turnoff before we could get off the Autostrada and reverse course.  But after that little detour, we were soon back on track and in Pisa, which was teeming with tourists at the Leaning Tower area, which was actually an enclave of buildings; the tower of course, and also a cathedral and several other beautiful old buildings.  And we discovered that the Tower really did lean, a LOT, more than I think any of us had imagined. 
 
The Leaning Tower of "You Know Where"!

 While Lanie and Connie planted themselves at a nearby open air café/restaurant, Addison and I showed up at the tour time, got a short history lesson inside the hollow tower, and on a definitely slanted floor, before climbing the 250 or so marble steps to the top of the tower.  Nice views from there.  We took our pics, waved at the women, then headed down.  At lunch at the same café, we sat next to a nice couple from Denmark who were well familiar with Western Oregon since the guy, who was in the Christmas tree business, had made several trips to Tree Farms in Oregon over the years.
At a sidewalk cafe in Pisa

On the way back to our resort that afternoon, we took a side trip into a quaint little walled town called Lucca.  There was only one road into/out the walled town one each side; and we seemed to be one of only a few cars actually driving down the small cobblestone roads, many of them clogged with pedestrians.  We figured out later (see San Gimignano on following day) that probably inside the wall driving was only for business and local resident vehicles.  But no police pulled us over while there.

San Gimignano, my favorite of all the Italian towns we visited!
San Gimignano, a City of Towers!

Friday, October 7, 2016 -  On our final full day in Rignano sul Arno and Tuscany, we drove to the charming Medieval town of San Gimignano. This was probably my favorite town of the whole Italy tour, a quaint walled city dating back 500 years or more, unique for its dozen or so high stone towers.  You could see the towers from miles away on certain approaches to the town.  Anyhow, we had a nice walking tour (only locals and business vehicles can drive inside the walls); and Addison and I did a little more climbing up to the top of one tower which was probably higher than the Leaning Tower in Pisa; all in all a very nice way to end our week long visit to Tuscany.
View from the top on one of the Towers
Always took time for good wine and food in Italy!

Saturday, October 8, 2016 -  We checked out of Villa I’ll Palagio mid-morning after breakfast and headed back to the Mediterranean Coast enroute to Genoa.  We stopped at LaSpieza rail station south of the Cinque Terre region, and caught a local train to the Southernmost Cinque Terre town of Riomaggiore, where we ate lunch and toured the town a bit. We then took another train back (South) to LaSpieza and continued driving up the coast to Genoa.  Our hotel, Best Western Moderno Verdi was right across the street from the Rail Station; and had its own tiny, tight parking garage beneath the hotel.  We turned the parking over to the Hotel Attendant, telling him we wouldn’t need the car again until we checked out on Monday.  Lanie and I had room service dinner that night while Connie and Addison walked a short distance to a local restaurant.
Cinque Terre

Sunday, October 9, 2016 -  On this day, we headed back to Cinque Terre, taking another local train South to Riomaggiore, then hopping on/off various trains as we worked our way north, to Manarola, then Vernazza (skipping one of the Cinque Terre towns in the middle) and finally the northernmost town of Monterossa.  All were nice enough, ancient town buildings clinging to rocky cliffs along the Sea; but Lanie and I figured it would probably have been better to either walk along the sea or hill paths in an among the little towns OR view the Cinque Terre towns from a Sea Ferry/Taxi. In late afternoon we caught one more local train from Monterossa back to Genoa and our hotel there.
Cruising the narrow streets of Cinque Terre

Monday, October 10, 2016-  We drove up the Coast to Monaco and its capital city of Monte Carlo this day, spending the time there walking in and among the expensive cars and yachts of this playground of the rich and famous.  Interesting but a little out of our price range were we to entertain thoughts of staying longer.  One interesting tidbit was that the approximately 80 miles of Autostrada between Monte Carlo and Genoa had something like 115 tunnels as it wound its way along the rugged, hilly Mediterranean coastline. 
I think we must be in Monte Carlo!

Tuesday, October 11, 2016 – Off to Milan on this day, where we had a walking tour of the old town, which included a visit to the church where Da Vinci’s Last Supper (circa late 1400’s) was located.  Our previous short visit at the start of our Italy tour was largely in the newer section of Milan.  This day was spent entirely in the Old Town, which was quite charming, with lovely old buildings and one stunning Gothic Cathedral (Duomo).  We had parked the car in a lot near the last Supper church, and on our way back to that area stopped in at a local restaurant, enjoying a wonderful meal, and, of course, good Italian wine. We stayed that night at the Holiday Inn Express at Malpensa airport, which was about 25 miles out (NW) of Milan.
Alps towering over beautiful Lake Como

Wednesday, October 12, 2016- This was our last full day in Italy/Europe, and also Connie’s birthday.  We spent most of the day on Lake Como North of Milan.  This a beautiful, long, winding lake framed by the Italian Alps.  We enjoyed refreshments lakeside in the town of Como, among other things, watching Float Planes land and takeoff.  Then we drove up the lake further, having lunch along the narrow road bordering the lake before heading back to our hotel at Malpensa.

Thursday, October 13, 2016 – We flew home on this day after a wonderful 3 weeks in Europe; Connie and Addison leaving before us, returning to Eugene via NYC, SLC on Delta, while we flew British Airways to London Heathrow, and then non-stop from there via the polar route over Iceland and Greenland to Phoenix, a long, long trip of over 10 hours flying time.


Tuesday, 4 April 2017

Cruising the Rhine, European Vacation, Part I



Our River Cruise Ship, the Viking Tialfi

This might be called when a "Log" becomes a "Blog".  You see, for some years now I've written private logs, shared only with family members for the most part, about our various travels and vacation adventures.  From some of those emerged my very first Blogs a few years back after we'd retired. Now, after a few months voluntarily "retired" from serious blogging, I decided to get back into the swing of things by basically reprinting my "Log", with pictures added, from a long awaited 3 week trip to Europe we took this past Fall, the centerpiece being a European River Cruise up the Rhine from Amsterdam to Basel, Switzerland.  Then, after the cruise, we stayed on for another week plus in North and Central Italy.  We traveled yet again with our good friends from Eugene (and Bend), Connie and Addison Manley, both of them now conveniently retired as well; and we had a great time.  So here's Part I of my "Log/Blog"

Castle on the Rhine, a recurring theme during our river cruise



Wed/Thursday, September 21-22, 2016
Lanie and I flew out of PHX mid-morning on American Airlines for Amsterdam via Philadelphia.  Had about a 2 hour layover in Philadelphia before boarding another American Airlines Jet bound for Amsterdam.  Arrived in Amsterdam Thursday morning local time (9 hour time difference from Tempe).  We didn’t really sleep all that much on the overnight flight, though I did get a bit more “shut-eye” than Lanie.  Anyhow, once in the Amsterdam airport, and after clearing customs, we asked at information desk as to best way to get to our hotel.  They suggested a bus that stopped very near the Hotel; so we got on the bus with all our luggage, managed to get off at the right stop, and, after a little searching around, found the Hotel a short distance down the road, the Hampshire Hotel, Theatre District.  

Delft, the Netherlands
Too early to  check in, so we left the bags at the hotel, took the tram to the Central Rail Station and caught a train to Delft, where we had lunch in this nice, picturesque town before taking another train back to Central, and tram back to the Hotel.  Connie and Addison had arrived by then and had already checked in.  Our rooms were dinky, but serviceable; and we found a nice place to eat nearby and crashed for the night after being mostly awake for the previous 24 hours.

Friday, September 23, 2016 -   We spent most of this day exploring Amsterdam via an On-Off Bus tour, circling the old town and all its wonderful canals; then taking a boat tour as well.  As part of our day long tour, we also went to the VanGogh museum.  Amsterdam is a beautiful city filled with the lovely canals and wonderful buildings in the old Town section.


Amsterdam, a beautiful city built along canals!
It seemed like there were more bicycles, with bicyclists of all ages (Note, no one wore bike helmets) than cars in the city.  While it was nice to see so many people commuting by bike, the bicyclists by and large seemed to feel that they had right of way at all times over us poor pedestrians.  And motor scooters and some small motorcycles also puttered down the bikeways as well, adding to pedestrian “fun”.  But we survived and in general enjoyed the ambience of this wonderful old canal town.  Our hotel was in the Old Town and right across a small canal from a large restaurant and bar area, many of them having both open air and inside seating.

A very public "Pis..", check that, Male Urinal Station, in Amsterdam Theatre District

Saturday, September 24, 2016 -  One of the most moving visits/tours we made on this vacation was to the Anne Frank house just a short distance from our hotel, again using a daily On-Off Bus pass to get there.  It was incredible imagining the Frank family and several other Jewish friends virtually hiding out in this house with darkened windows and few lights much of the time for over two years before they were captured and sent off to Concentration Camps, where only the father survived by the end of the war. 
Friends Forever, Connie and Lanie at a sidewalk cafe in Amsterdam

By mid-day, we had checked out of the hotel and took a tram to the Cruise ship docks near the Central Rail Station.  There we boarded the Viking Tialfi for our weeklong Rhine Getaway Cruise.  The ship took off around 6 PM for the cruise.
Netherlands and Windmills, they go together!

Sunday, September 25, 2016 – Our first stop and tour on this day was at a little town called Kinderdjyk (sp), one of the few places in the Netherlands where there are still a concentration of windmills.  The walking tour took us by several of these historic windmills, and even inside one windmill, where whole families used to live and manage the windmills.  Our tour guide was quite a character, a local resident with a scruffy beard who bore a passing resemblance to the Hag (Merle Haggard).  All in all a good start to our cruise.  We had adjoining 3rd deck staterooms with small outdoor balconies; but spent most of our daylight time, when we weren’t on tours, either in the lounge up front on the same floor, or up on the open top (4th) deck.
The "Hag", or reasonable facsimile, holds court during our windmill tour

Monday, September 26, 2016 –  We had left the flatlands of the Netherlands behind by this point, entering the rolling hills along the Rhine in Germany.  Our daily excursion/tour was to Cologne, a wonderful old town.  Actually much of the town was razed by Allied bombing in WWII, but the grand old cathedral, one of the most stunning cathedrals we’d ever seen, survived the war with relatively light damage.  It was definitely a highlight. 
 
Cologne's indomitable cathedral

It was also on this day that we all sampled the famous beer of that region, Kolsch, which was a relatively light, zesty lager.  I had a couple and Lanie even had a few sips before switching back to wine.

A rare sight to behold, Lanie hoisting a brew; not just any brew, mind you, but a "Kolsch"!

Tuesday, September 27, 2016 – By this time on our cruise, we’d entered the Middle Rhine, a beautiful stretch winding through centuries old vineyards lining the hillsides, with dozens of ancient castles perched on top of the hills.  While docking at Koblenz, Germany, Lanie and I took a tour up to a mammoth stone fortress overlooking the city.  This was on the other (East) side of the river, and we rode a gondola across the Rhine and up to the fortress.  Connie and Addison went on a different tour to nearby Marksburg Castle.  Later that afternoon Addison and I walked a short distance to a museum which featured old autos and aircraft; very interesting.

Vineyards stretching up the hills along the Rhine

Hanging out on the upper deck of the Viking Tialfi

Wednesday, September 28, 2016 -  Our stop and tour today was near Heidelberg, where we took a bus for about 45 minutes to the gigantic Schloss Heidelberg overlooking this beautiful old city on the banks of the Neckar River.  It was near here in 2005 that we, with Emily, spent a few nights in an old castle overlooking the Neckar near the little town of Neckarzimmen.. 
Heidelberg along the Neckar River; the view from the Schloss

Thursday, September 29, 2016 -  On this day we stopped on the French side of the Rhine for a walking tour of Strasbourg; and then later that day Lanie and I took a wine tasting tour into the countryside West of Strasbourg. I think they called this the Alsace wine region of France; mostly white wines but also a regional version of Pinot Noir.  Very nice.  Connie and Addison opted for a tour of the nearby Mercedes factory.

Strasbourg (I believe)!

Another Castle on the Rhine!

Friday, September 30, 2015 -  With our week long cruise nearing its end, our last tour was near Breisatz, Germany, where we boarded a bus and drove for over an hour into the Black Forest of SW Germany.  Here, while the ladies browsed the shops in a little, forested town, Addison and I took a short hike up into the hills, walking for much of the way along a beautiful bubbling creek.
Cruising in the Black Forest region of S. Germany

Saturday, October 1, 2016 -  We said goodbye to our Cruise crew in the morning.  Most notable among them was Boyan, the cruise activities director and a number of folks in food service, several of them from the Phillipines; and all very friendly.  Boyan came from Eastern Europe, Serbia I believe, as did a good number of the crew we interacted with. 
Deep in the Black Forest!

 Anyhow, we were docked in Basel, Switzerland, and soon took a taxi to the train station where we managed to find our train to Milan in plenty of time.  The train trip took about 4 hours as it wound its way through the Swiss and Italian Alps; a quite beautiful trip, though some of it was through long tunnels.  Once at the Central Station in Milan, we got a little bit of a rude surprise as the rental car that Addison had reserved was much too small to carry our collective luggage as well as the four of us (tiny trunk could only hold one large bag); and the rental car company had no other cars available that day. We tried several other rental car companies, but it was around 6 PM by then; and most were closed or closing up.  So we had two choices; 1) stay in Milan overnight, or 2) catch a train to Florence, and then try to figure out how to get to our timeshare resort outside of Florence, all in one evening.  We opted for staying in Milan and hopefully getting a larger car in the AM. 
Parting shot from our Rhine cruise, a Castle, of course!

The original rental car company was right across the street from the LeGare Hotel; Lanie and Connie had already gone to the hotel bar to wait out the rental car fiasco that afternoon.  So we stayed there at this very nice, if a bit spendy, hotel; and ate our first dinner in Italy a short block away at a restaurant recommended by the hotel staff.

They call these "Caravan Parks" in Europe!