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San Marcos River |
Following the “Broken Wheel in Broken Bow” incident on the first of October of this year, we were ready to push off for Arizona, via a
week plus hiatus in Texas. We’ve been to
Texas probably close to or more than 10 times since our first ever visit to
Texas 17 years ago, each time either just passing through, OR stopping in Texas
Hill Country for some sight-seeing, music and barbeque. And we were headed to Hill Country again as
we pushed off from Broken Bow for San Marcos, Texas, 30 miles South of
Austin. We planned to go on 2 lane
highways, skirting the greater Dallas Metropolitan area, before connecting up
with Interstate 35 South of Dallas and proceeding through Waco and then Austin
to San Marcos.
What we discovered, barely 100 miles into our 400+ journey
on the day, is that we HAD NO TRAILER BRAKES.
Won’t go into specifics here, but basically Big Bertha was now solely
responsible for stopping herself and the 10,000 pound “Gorilla” on her backside
(the 5th) for the next 300+ miles… which included stop and go
traffic through the greater Austin area.
But we survived, with no visible signs of smoke and/or fire from
Bertha’s brakes, and arrived in a beautiful RV park set along the San Marcos
River at midafternoon on that Saturday.
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Pecan Park RV Park, San Marcos, TX |
We were ready to experience, again, the best of what Hill
Country Texas offers, namely… in no particular order… Music, BBQ, scenery, and,
oh yes, WINE! But first we had to deal with a few RV issues, the aforementioned
lack of brakes for instance; and also such things as no Water Pump and an
inoperable Gas Fired Water Heater, for other examples. All of these problems were dealt with
quickly, and efficiently, by Will AND Will, a father/son team from nearby
Seguin, TX operating Lone Star (RV) Services.
These guys, like Discount Wheel and Tire in Broken Bow (see previous
blog post), were “lifesavers”, coming out immediately to our RV, diagnosing
what needed to be repaired, and doing it. This is another shameless plug for a
great local company!
Thanks to Will, and Will, we were set to head out on the
next leg of our RV travels after the upcoming weekend with confidence that we
had brakes, we could pump water if needed, and our water heater was fully
functioning; all important matters while on the road. But, before hitching up
again, we were determined to experience all that the beautiful Texas Hill
Country offers; which leads, among other things, to BARBEQUE. Barely 15 miles down the road from our RV
Park along the San Marcos River lies the Barbeque Capital of Texas… and therefore
the USA, if you ask any self-respecting Texan… in the little town of Lockhart,
which is noted for one hellaciously beautiful Country Courthouse building AND
at least 3 great German style slow smoked barbeque joints. At a couple places, plates, utensils, and BBQ
sauce, are mere secondary concerns, and certainly not necessary to enjoy the
deep smoked wonderfulness of Brisket, prime rib, pork and beef ribs, pork chops and loins, and
hand crafted local sausages.
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Black's in San Marcos |
During this trip, we went to Kreuz (pronounced “Krites”)
Market and Smittie’s (Smith’s Market) in
Lockhart, and then branched out to Louie Mueller Barbeque in Taylor, Texas up
Northeast of Austin, Luling BBQ 15 miles down the road (SW of) from Lockhart,
and Black’s Barbeque in San Marcos… All were excellent. I haven’t yet found barbeque joints in other
parts of the country that quite compare to the slow smoked barbeque offerings
in Hill Country Texas … hold the sauce please, it ain’t needed!
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Louie Mueller's, been around a long time! |
When we weren’t seeking good Barbeque, which wasn’t often,
we explored parts of the Texas Hill Country around San Marcos. We love Austin for its numerous live music
venues and general ambience (shading toward the liberal side of things, always
a good thing to me… and unlike most of the rest of Texas). For me, Austin, Not Nashville, is the Live
Music Capital of the Country. But we
didn’t even go to Austin this trip, except for the nerve-wracking weave through
stop and go traffic on a Saturday with no trailer brakes. Instead, we had lots to look forward to… besides
barbeque… in the San Marcos area.
For one, there is Gruene Hall, and the little community of
the same name, on the outskirts of New Braunfels, just south of San
Marcos. Gruene Hall is the OLDEST music
hall in all of Texas; and its rustic interior has seen pretty much all the
greats of Texas Music, and beyond. A
then virtually unknown George Strait and his band, hailing from nearby San
Marcos, played here for tips way back
when… WHEN they were still trying to get a foothold in country music. And
others as well, Willie, Jerry Jeff, Dale, Chris, Bruce, Kelly, Rodney, and the
list of Country luminaries goes on and on, and beyond… On the weekend before we were slated to leave
Texas, Aaron Neville headlined a music festival at this little music and dance
hall… We, regrettably, did not go since we had previously committed to a
weekend festival near Houston.
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Gruene Hall |
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Just another live music night at Gruene Hall |
About that festival, officially it was called the Conroe
Cajun Crawfish Festival, Conroe being a bedroom community some 50 miles north
of Houston. We actually stayed in a
pretty little RV Park a few miles East of Conroe in a community called (I kid
you not!) “Cut and Shoot”. Hey, we
weren’t packing “heat”… so nothing to shoot with or at, and I only cut my
finger once trying to break off a snagged fish line while dipping in the
fishing pond (unsuccessfully) for a big catfish. Lanie and I went to the festival on a
Saturday night, eating Louisiana/Cajun flavored dishes and listening to good
local Texas, and Cajun, music. One
downer here was it was damn tough to order a decent glass of wine…. Bud Light
(why? I don’t know), ruled the day, perhaps because they were the prime
sponsor… Hey, Texas ain’t huge on good local microbrews, what can I say?... so
drink your damn pis… I mean Bud Light, and don’t hassle my choice of cheap red
wine!
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Cajun food in Conroe |
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Crawfish gumbo and something else Cajun... can't remember the details! |
Two of our favored Texan musicians, who most of the rest of
the World have never heard of, namely Cory Morrow from Houston, and headliner
Roger Creager from Corpus Christi, closed out the Saturday evening music on the
Texas stage. A block away, a like number
of regional Cajun and Creole musicians entertained the festival crowd. It was a
good day, and night, despite my inability to land a single dang catfish back at
the RV park.
The Crawfish Festival behind us, we set off of Sunday,
October 11th, for points West, ultimate destination Tempe, AZ… it
was time to go “home”, or what passes for home for us when we’re not on the
road. We trekked some 300 miles across
Texas to Kerrville, a San Antonio bedroom community, the first day, with a noon
time stop at Luling BBQ in the heart of Barbeque Heaven. Did I mention that
Texas is a BIG State? We still had some
400 miles to go to get to the Texas/New Mexico border. And the last part of the next day’s journey
was through El Paso, which was… well, I won’t say anything GOOD or further
about El Paso, other than we made it through without mishap… and put up camp in
nearby Las Cruces, New Mexico.
We were done with Texas, but it had been a good trip, if a little trying with the RV maintenance issues. Texas had done a little bit of “messin” with us it seems. But we survived, and next day, a Tuesday, we were back in Tempe, our home away from our REAL HOME!
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Las Cruces, New Mexico |
We were done with Texas, but it had been a good trip, if a little trying with the RV maintenance issues. Texas had done a little bit of “messin” with us it seems. But we survived, and next day, a Tuesday, we were back in Tempe, our home away from our REAL HOME!